Click Here for Latest BMW Articles
<


E36 BMW Check Coolant Level OBC Message
E30 BMW 3 Series Pre Purchase Checklist
E36/E46 Rear Trailing Arm Bushing (RTAB) Replacement 1
E36/E46 BMW Rear Shock Mount (RSM) Replacement
BMW Control Arm Bushing Replacement Tips
E36 Exhaust Replacement and M3 Exhaust Swap Upgrade
E36 Warped Rotors, Ceramic Pads, and the Fix
E36 Warped Rotors and Brake Pad Deposits
E30 318i and 318is Suspension and Tie Rod Replacement
Replacing your BMW's fuel filter
BMW Cooling System Flush/Refill Part 2
BMW Cooling System Flush/Antifreeze/Refill I
E36 BMW Power Window Problems and Repair
BMW Headliner Repair and Replacement
M50 Intake Manifold Swap for 328i/328is and M3
E28 BMW 5 Series History and Information
More Power for BMW 2002 and 2002tii Part 2
More Power for BMW 2002 and 2002tii Part 1
Replacing E36 and E46 BMW Tie Rods
Hints and Tips for Washing and Waxing your BMW
Performance Modifications for E36 M52 328i and 328is
1991 E30 318is Performance Mods
E36 BMW 3 Series Oxygen Sensor Replacement Instructions Part 2
E36 BMW 3 Series Oxygen Sensor Replacement Instructions Part 1
E30 325i and 325is vs E30 M3: The Better Street Car
Suspension and Handling Upgrades for E34 BMW 5 Series Sedans
BMW Differential Repair, Replacement, and Upgrades Part 2
BMW Differential Repair, Replacement, and Upgrades Part 1
E46 3 Series Wear Items Checklist: What To Expect
E30 BMW 3 Series History and Performance
E34/E36/E39 M50/S50/M52/S52 BMW Engine Coil Replacement
E36 3 Series Wear Items Checklist: What To Expect
From E12 to E39: BMW M5 and M535i History and Development
My BMW Dream Garage
More BMW Radiator and Cooling System Information
BMW Radiator and Cooling System Information
How To Get More Horsepower From 2.7 ETA-engine BMWs
Performance Mods for M20 2.5 i engines
Replacing Sparkplugs and Valve Cover Gaskets
E24 BMW 6 Series History and Development: The Shark
Brief History of the M3: From E30 to E46
E36 M3 vs E36 325is and 328is: Performance Comparison
Replacing E30, E36, and E46 Ball Joints
E36 BMW Slip Ring Replacement and Why It Fails
Buying BMW Parts Online
BMW World
BMW Car Club of America
BMW Car Magazine
Rennlist BMW Site
Ben Liaw's BMW Links
BMW Nation
BMW E21 Info
Bimmers.Com BMW Info
BMW USA: BMW NA Site
Bimmerhead.com
Global web directory project

Powered by Blogger

Blog Directory


E30 325i and 325is VS E30 M3 As Street Cars

In previous articles, I brielfy mentioned my preference for the E30 325i and 325is cars instead of the legendary E30 M3 when it comes to street driving. This is not some blind devotion to the regular 3 series or believing that the E30 M3's giant killer status is overrated, but rather a logical analysis of purchase cost, ownership costs, insurance, maintenance, and overall value for money spent. The principle advtanges the E30 M3 has in *racing* environments are its 4 valve/cylinder high-revving inline 4, which is basically 2/3 of the block from the M1/M635/M5/M6 S88/S38 engine, its wider track, beefier suspension design, quicker steering rack, and aerodynamic bodywork. However, on the street, the streets where most folks use these cars, the advantages of the M3 are not as clear cut. The simple M20 2 valve/cylinder engine is better suited for cut-and-thrust commuting duty. Let me go as far as to say that the 1987-1991 325i and 325is manual transmission cars are not that far off the pace of the M3 in stock form!

Exhibit A is the February 1988 issue of Road and Track magazine, which compared the M3 and 325is. The M3 edged out the 325is in the 0 to 60 test, doing it in 7.1 seconds vs 7.5 (some other magazines reported 7.4 for the 325i/is) for the 325. The M3 held a minor advantage through the quarter mile, running it in 15.4 seconds at 91 MPH vis 15.7 seconds at 89 mph for the 325is. Interesting right? Now consider the fact that the M3 already has a 4.10 limited slip differential vs the E30 325i's 3.73 diff, thus giving the M3 a gearing advantage! Put a 4.10 differential in a 325i or 325is, and it will instantly make it faster than a stock M3, top speed aside.

Now, I do realize the M3 has a 24 hp advantage stock for stock, with 192 horsepower vs 168 hp. What people forget is that the power curve/delivery and gearing play a large role in how quickly a car can accelerate. The peak M3 engine has much smaller usable power range, whereas the fat curve of the M20 325i engine is much less spiky. The area under the power curve of the six-cylinder is greater than the area under the power curve of the four cylinder, for the total RPM range used in accelerating. That's why the 325is is faster when you give it the same gearing.

A chipped 325i or 325is with a MAF conversion (which is the only way to make a cold air intake effective on these cars) will narrow the horsepower gap considerably. You'll be within 10 or so hp of matching the stock M3 in peak horsepower, and have all that nice low and mid range power. Upgrade to a 2.7 liter conversion from the 1988 only 528e or 325 base model, add a Schrick cam and Mass Air Flow meter and you will be able to put the hurt on even many modified E30 M3's.

Remember, in the end the M3 is still a superior performance car, with better brake design, suspension geometry, weight balance, braking dynamics, handling, and oh so much cachet and panache. Take a look at the Grassroots Motorsports Magazine's E30 comparison from a few years ago. They pitted a 1991 318is, 1990 325is, and 1988 M3 against each other on the street, autocross course, and on the road course. The high revving M3 was untouchable over 5000 rpm, and all agreed its ultimate performance ceiling was much higher, but the real world of cops, traffic, traffic lights, and sane speeds makes the decision much tougher. The 325is feels faster on the street, and besides, you can always swap in a M50 engine for cheap money. Have you considered how expensive the M3;s S14 engine is to work on or rebuild??

E34 BMW 5 Series Suspension Upgrades

Available in the US from 1989-1995, the E34 BMW 5 series is the last of the non-computer assisted design (C.A.D.) cars from BMW. Much more modern looking and driving than the E28 5 series it replaced, the E34 remains today a highly desirable car, for its durability, styling, reliability, and performance. However, even the newest E34 is over a decade old now, and chances are that unless a collector had it tucked away in storage, or was owned by the proverbial little old lady, your 525i, 525it (or 525i touring) 535i, 535it (or 535i Touring), 540i, 540i sport, or M5 has some miles on it. People are usually amazed at the difference new shocks and struts plus upgraded springs and swaybars make. Wanna make your 525i wagon dance in the twisties like an M5? Not that hard. It's all in the sway bar size, spring rates, damping rates, and quality and durometer of the bushings.

E34 BMW 5 Series Shocks - Choosing the Right Shocks and Struts for Your BMW and Driving Style

If you like damping rates of stock BMW 5'ers, with the consequent stock ride quality, I recommend Boge or Koni. For a firmer, more overtly sporting ride, go with Bilstein HD or Bilstein Sport, Boge Turbo Gas (which are somewhat softer) or Koni yellow. All out sporty ride, short of coilover suspension? Koni adjustable shocks or KYB's if you are on a budget (warning - KYB shocks are very stiff and not in the same league as Bilstein or Koni with regard to quality and lifespan. However, they are certainly an upgrade over anything worn out!). Some Bilstein shock experts think both the HD and Sport have the same valving, but the stroke is simply shorter on the sport models. The sports are your best bet for use with lowering springs. The stroke length is considered to be unimportant for use with lowering springs according to a few BMW experts. In the past, you were led to believe that using lowering springs with standard stroke length dampers would lead to rapid shock or strut wear, but this may not be true. The throw is shorter, and fully compressed position is the same and that is what counts. The worst thing that would happen is that some of the stroke length potential is taken up and not utilized by using a shorter spring. This comes as a relief to many BMW enthusiasts concerned that using H&R or similar springs with newer stock or Bilstein HD's would have a deleterious affect on their car's suspension components lifespans.

E34 BMW 5 Series Control arms (aka aluminum wishbones)

Aluminum is lighter and stiffer than steel. Aluminum control arms are available for e34 5 series BMWs. E31 8 series arms will work, but they have spherical bearings vs the E34 rubber bushing-equipped ones. If you are just looking to replace the bushings, BMW dealers do not sell them separately, but aftermarket suppliers do.

Choosing Springs for your E34 BMW 5 Series
If you choose to upgrade from the stock springs, you are faced with a ton of brand and model choices. The most popular spring manufacturers seem to be H&R, whose sport springs drop the car roughly 1.3" Front and 1" in the rear while providing a moderately stiff ride; Eibach, whose springs are similarly stiff with a similar drop compared to H&R; Racing Dynamics, whose springs are slightly softer, but still stiffer than stock with a mild 1" front and .75" rear drop; Bavarian Auto, whose sport springs offer close-to-stock ride quality with a 1.5" front and 1" rear drop; Dinan, whose sport springs lower the car about as much as OEM 540i Sport (sport package) springs, and OEM M5 springs, the rear s of which will not work without self-levelling suspension (the fronts work just fine).

Matching Shocks and Springs for Your E34
In order of increasing stiffness:

  • Original ride: Original springs or Bavauto springs with Boge
  • Slightly stiffer ride: Original springs or Racing Dynamics springs with Bilsteins HD.
  • Moderately stiff ride: H&R or Eibach or Racing Dynamics springs with Boge.
  • Moderately stiffer ride: H&R or Eibach or Racing Dynamics springs with Bilsteins Sports/HD.

    If you want to lower the car and keep the OEM ride quality, go with the Bavauto springs.

    E34 Sway Bars (Also called anti-roll bars)
    Sway bars tie the lower suspension components together accross the front and the back, they affect the car oversteer and understeer. Bigger sway bars improve stability while cornering, the best setting is fully soft for the front and hard for the back. Stock E34 models usually have 23mm Front and 16mm rear bars. Cars equipped with factory sport suspension have 24mm front and 18mm rear sway bars. The M-Technic equipped cars and N. America-spec M5 models have 25mm front and 18mm rear bars. Eibach and Racing Dynamics are popular aftermarket providers for sway bars. The Eibac kit comes with a 26mm front and 13mm rear. The Racing Dynamics setup includes a 27mm and 19mm swaybar setup. The euro spec 3.8l E34 M5 had a 25mm bar, as did the rare M5 touring. 1994 and 1995 european M5's had 19mm rear swaybars, for all you Ebay and Ebay.de shoppers!

    Go with oem rubber bushings with larger sway bar if you want less harshness and vibration. As far as strut bars, also called strut braces or strut tower bars, they are designed to link the two strut towers together. A good strut brace reduces flex in the strut towers when the car is cornering. The tendency to flex is magnified with lowered cars. Good strut bars are a must if ever plan on taking your E34 BMW to the track. They improve chassis stiffness, making the the steering quicker and more responsive. Watch out for junk Ebay strut bars that are adjustable - they are compromised in design and useful for aesthetic purposes only haha!

  • BMW Differentials Part II: Diagnosing, Repairing, Removing, Replacing, Fluid Changes

    If your BMW is exhibiting symptoms of differential problems, you can rebuild your existing differential, and use a new ring and pinion gearset from BMW to change your gear ratio. Those with cars that already have limited slip differentials with the rato they prefer will want to go this route. Be warned: BMW gearsets are not cheap. Figure $500 - 900 at the dealer and a bit less used. The course of rebuilding the differential in a E24, E28, E30, E34, or E36 BMW will also require assorted bearings, seals and other bits. On top of this, you will need to figure a good four to five hours labor with the diff out of the car, and another two hours for removal and installation.

    How To Tell if Your BMW's Differential is Worn Out

    BMW differentials rarely fail as long as the oil level is reasonably well maintained and the oil is changed at least once in a while. Failure is rare even when the oil is not changed, as long as it's in there. The limited slip differentials are fairly bulletproof, but spider gears have been known to break pretty easily on open differentials that are subject to heavy wheelspin-like those that result from autocrossing or becoming stuck in the snow, or being joe cool when accelerating hard from a stop. You will know immediately if the spider gear has failed as the car will not move!

    A BMW differential's most common wear item are the output bearings. Output bearing wear is characterized by a hum or whine from the back of the car that will become audible between 3000-4000 rpm, usually more noticealbe in fifth gear at a constant cruising speed. The noise will stop or change when you lift your foot from the accelerator pedal and may also change as the suspension rebounds from dips and valleys in the roadway. The perceptability of the noise is dependent on the load on the bearing The noise may also stop entirely above a given rpm. Also, many cars with differentials showing this wear have gone another 50,000 miles with this noise and no further, so it's not necessarily something that needs to be addressed right away. But the longer you let it go, the more likely it is that other parts, such as the expensive ring and pinion gears, may wear out as well....


    It is easy to mistake noise emanating from front wheel bearings for differential whine. But, if you turn the steering wheel, front wheel bearing whine changes or goes away, and also be unaffected by throttle position.

    Should You Get a Used Differential or Rebuild Your Existing One?

    Buying used parts - often sight unseen over the internet these days- is always a gamble, especially when you are dealing with a BMW! If you buy a used diff from a reputable source and it makes the dread whining noise, take it back. However, they might now have another, a problem that occurs when you have one of the rarer BMW differentials, ring and pinions, or gear sets. A good example is a side loader 3.07 differential on the early E12-based 6 series coupes. When looking at a used diff, cleanliness of the unit is a pretty good indicator of quality or wear or lack thereof.

    When looking at used ones, bring a 3/8-in. ratchet, a 17mm socket and a 10mm allen socket along with you. Drain the differential oil, remove the cover and have a look-see. Differential oil is supposed to be changed approximately every 30,000 miles. Is the inside of the housing clean and gray? Do the gears and internals look clean? What about the oil that you just drained out? Is it reasonably clean, or does it look really dark? Another clue to diff maintenance is the drain plug itself. After being removed and replaced a few times, the drain plug will bear some scars. If it looks like it's never been out, it probably hasn't. Run away! On the other hand, don't summarily reject a diff just because it's not pristine inside, especially if the price is right.

    Assessing the quality of a rebuilt diff is trickier. Make sure any rebuilt one was done using factory/genuine BMW tools like bearing pullers and drifts, and according to the factory service specs. Here's a good test: Ask the guy who rebuilt it what oil he recommends. If he says something like Redline 75W-90 gear oil, thumbs up.
    At rebuild time, check the differential mount bushing. A BMW Motorsport solid bushing made of extremely hard rubber is available for those of you who track your car or otherwise drive it hard.

    Removing and Replacing an E30 BMW Differential - Instructions are similar for E24/E28/E30/E34/E36 BMW Models

  • If there's a lot of dirt and grease under the back of your car, do yourself a favor and pressure wash under there before taking on the job. You'll cut the grief and aggravation factor by at least 75 percent.
  • Jack up the rear of the car as high as possible. Don't jack on the differential; use the rear suspension carrier. Place jack stands under the rear suspension carrier mounts.
  • Drain the differential oil. Reinstallation torque on the drain and fill plugs is 50 Nm (36 ft-lb). If you've removed the cover, reinstallation torque is 50 Nm (36 ft-lb), and you must use new wave washers.
  • Cut the safety wire with a pair of side cutters and gently remove the speed sensor cable connector.
  • Using a long-handled 3/8-in. ratchet and an 8mm allen socket (preferably a long one), remove the inner CV joint retaining bolts on both sides. You can use the parking brake to lock the drivetrain. Reinstallation torque is 58 Nm (42 ft-lb).
  • Using a 17mm short open end wrench and the park brake, remove the four driveshaft to differential flange nuts and slip out the special bolts. It's impossible to get a torque wrench on these nuts. Just make 'em real tight. They're lock nuts, so if they've been off more than once or twice buy new ones-part no. 07 12 9 964 672.
  • Using a 22mm box wrench and a 1/2-in. drive ratchet with a 22mm socket, remove the 12mm bolt that toes through the rubber differential mount. The diff will drop about 2 or 3 inches now. Reinstallation torque is 87 Nm (63 ft-lb).
  • Place a floor jack with a piece of plywood under the differential. Using a 19mm short box wrench and a the 1/2-in. ratchet with a 19mm socket and a 1-in. extension, remove the differential housing to axle carrier retaining bolts. Reinstallation torque is 123 Nm (89 ft-lb), if you can get a torque wrench on the fasteners.
  • Carefully lower the floor jack and say hello to your diff. Follow these instructions in reverse to re-assemble. Voila!

    More BMW Differential Notes
    BMW differentials need a fluid change around every 30,000 miles. If filling a limited slip unit be sure to use the correct fluid with friction modifiers. Undo the filler plug first, this will prevent the embarrassment of having a drained diff and no way to fill it if the plug is stuck!


    A limited slip differential is desirable as it provides improved traction, if one wheel slips the other will continue to turn and get the car moving on ice, mud or snow. More modern BMWs have ASC+T electronic traction control and don't need LSDs so much although some cars did have both.

    The best lubricants (& change intervals) for BMW manual gearboxes and differentials: It's generally accepted wisdom that BMW's have special needs for the oil used in the manual gearboxes. Most of us know that you can't just go down to the local autoparts store and buy gear-oil off the shelf that's compatible with your BMW. There are a few gear-oils that are OK for your BMW, but to simplify this issue as, let's go directly to the best solution.

    Since you should be using a premium synthetic gear-oil, Redline makes one that is appropriate for your BMW. Virtually all of us who race BMW's use Redline gear-oil in our gearboxes and differentials. Why? A premium synthetic gear-oil will make the parts inside your gearbox and differential last longer. Reduced "hydraulic drag" will allow more of your engine's horsepower to get from your engine to the rear wheels. Synthetic gear-oils themselves last much longer than conventional oils, so you can reduce maintenance.

    Which type of Redline or other synthetic oil should you use in your bimmer? In the gearbox (manual transmission), some BMW's made between 1986 and 1992 had "labeled" gearboxes with a red or green label on the passenger side of the bellhousing. These had 17mm EXTERNAL wrenching oil plugs. If the label is green, use Redline MT90. If the label is red, use Redline D4 ATF. If there was no label, the gearbox will have 17mm INTERNAL wrench oil plugs, and should use Redline MTL GL-4 70W-80. Virtually all BMW manual gearboxes used before 1986 should use the same Redline MTL GL-4 70W-80 as you would use in the no-label / internal plug 1986-1992 gearboxes. For BMW's 1993 and newer, Redline recommends D4 ATF for all gearboxes, manual OR automatic.

    Now, for differential oil, it is easier. ALL BMW differentials use Redline 75W-90 Gearoil. This is ideal for open or factory limited-slip units, as well as the torque-sensing type if you are lucky enough to have one of those.

    How often should you change the tranny or diff oil?


    In racing, back in the days when people used non-synthetic gear-oils, the useful life of gear-oil in the gearbox and differential under summer racing conditions was just a few hundred miles, or just a few hours. Synthetics now can go an entire racing season, so racer's just make changing them part of the off-season winter maintenance, just once a year. For street cars, you can get away with never changing a synthetic, although I certainly would recommend doing it at least every two or three years for optimal gearbox and diff life.

  • BMW Differentials: What Cars Came With Plus Swaps and Upgrades, Part 1

    BMW enthusiasts, especially those with older BMW cars, have a wide variety of gearing and drive ratios at their disposable as BMW differentials have a wide variety of ratios and offer broad interchangeability across multiple generations of cars and various platforms.

    People talk a lot about the most 'bang for the buck' modifications they can do to improve their car's performance (and by performance they are usually referring to acceleration), and a differential gearset swap or change to a lower (numerically higher) ring and pinion gearset is the single most effective way to increase acceleration. Many call it the 'poor man's supercharger'. It's as bolt-on of a mod as you can get, and has nothing to do with the engine, emissions, or EPA regulations.

    BMW used to intentionally undergear its cars to give them slightly better fuel economy so government corporate average fuel economy (CAFE) requirements would be met. The ironic thing about that is the real world trade off that makes you drive harder in order to accelerate faster, thereby offsetting any gains anyway! While this article focuses mostly on E30 BMW 3 series cars, those with E24 6 series, E28 and E34 5 series, and E36 3 series should also pay close attention. I will recommend some general guidelines for each platform and generation at the end that will make choosing a differential easier.

    Keep in mind that a (numerically higher) lower ring and pinion/differential/gearset will make your engine turn higher revs, run faster, at any given MPH. This means that when taking highway driving and fuel economy into consideration, there is a point of diminishing returns when going lower (higher numerically). Some BMW's have an overdriven 5th gear that helps mitigate the buzziness of higher revving during highway driving. For example, if your fifth gear is an overdriven 0.81:1 (for example, E30 BMWs) going to a 4.10 diff or gearset means you'll still have a final ratio of only 3.32 in fifth gear (4.10 x .91 =3.321). This translates to just under 75 mph at 3500 rpm in fifth gear using 205/55-15 tires. A 4.45 gearset would raise the revs only to about 3750. So it's not like you'll be getting buzzed out of the cockpit on the highway.


    Believe it or not, the top speed of your BMW is usually affected less by a lower gearset (aka higher numerically differential) because not many cars have enough to pin the tach in top gear. Wind resistance, aerodynamics, enigne horsepower and torque output etc conspire to stop you from reaching to attain maximum rpm in an overdriven fifth gear. This is why your 318is won't do 150 mph. Now, of course your car will have a theoretically lower maximum speed, but improving the gear ratios can help you get to a higher real world top speed by giving you more leverage vs wind and drag by optimizing the usable power curve with the gear ratios. Make sense?

    If you do have a BMW that was available in both 4 and 6 cylinder guise, remember that differentials will not be interchangeable. Don't believe me? Compare the diff housing, casing, and rear axle carriers of a M42 powered 91 318is and a 91 325ic. The only exception to this is the E30 M3, which has a 'large case' 6 cylinder style differential. This 4.10 LSD is really nice on a 87-91 325i or 325is. In fact, give one of these cars a 4.10 limited slip diff and a chip and you'll find the car accelerates at least as hard as the vaunted E30 M3. Be warned: the 4.10 differential is considered too peaky for an M30-powered 535i, 633csi, or 635csi.


    An important thing to bear in mind about swapping is that six- and four-cylinder E30 BMW differentials are different and will not interchange. The housings and rear axle carriers are totally different. Interchangeability only exists among four-cylinder cars and six-cylinder cars separately. The sole exception is the E30 M3, which uses a six-cylinder-type differential, thus providing a source of 4.10 limited slip diffs for the 325i. In addition, differentials from the E28 5 Series BMWs (1982-88) will also interchange with the E30 six-cylinder 3 Series cars, and this becomes key to modifying the early eta engine E30s.

    Have an E28 5 series or E24 6 series? Check this out. E28 models came with one of four differentials: 2.93 open in the 528e; 3.15 open in the 524td (diesel); 3.25 in the 533I and 535i/is; and 3.91 in the M5. Limited slip differentials are identified by a white "S" painted on the outside of the housing, usually on top. You can also turn the input shaft and note what happens: If you're looking at an LSD, both flanges will rotate in the same direction. If it's an open diff, either only one will turn or they'll turn in opposite directions. The ring and pinion gearset ratio is identified on a small metal tag on one of the cover bolts. If the tag is gone, you'll have to remove the cover and count the teeth on the ring and pinion gears. The 3.73 325i/is differential is a really nice setup on 82-88 5 series and 1982-88 6 series. Some people give these cars the M5 3.91 (some M6 models had this or the 3.73), but the M5 and M6 cars have the M88/1 aka S38 DOHC engine that revs higher to support this low gearing, whereas the SOHC M30-powered cars are much milder (comparatively speaking, of course).

    There are a ton of 533I and 535is models in junkyards, and this means easy picking for owners of E30 cars that have the (lame in stock form) "eta" engine and a 2.79 or 2.93 diff. A swap to the 3.25 differential is super cheap and makes the car really come to life...til you hit that 4500 RPM wall in stock form - but we can cure that easily, just see my recommendations for E30 E/ETA performance setups. Junkyards practically give these away. The 1991-only E30 318is already comes with a 4.10 differential (note; not all 91 318is models have a limited slip diff, check the differential to be sure, this in spite of the fact that it was an IS or sports package car!). Thee rare 4.27 unit from 1991 318i Cabriolets is really only good for short track racing or for a 91 318is with aftermarket camshafts and porting. Also, not many of the 4.27 differentials were limited slip. A lot of people also like a 3.91 differential in the 3.91 IS. Time 0-60 acceleration suffers with this swap, but usable acceleration is improved and it allows you to stay in the same gear longer. Great for mildly modified cars.

    Part II of this article will cover BMW Differential Repairing, Maintaining, and Instructions for swapping. Hwo to tell if your differential is worn, how to drain and refill the transmission and differential oil/lubricant etc.

    E46 3 Series BMW Wear Items List

    It seems like it was just yesterday that we waited with baited breath for the succeessor the wildly popular E36 3 series to be unveiled. The 1999 model year brought North America the E46 series coupes, convertibles, and sedans. The E46 M3 did not arrive stateside until 2001. The leap from E36 to E46 was an evolutionary one, and not the wholesale chassis redesign that marked the arrival of the E36. As such, those familiar with the E36's underpinnings will not have a hard time making the transition to do-it-yourself maintenance and repair on the E46 3 sereis. On a less positive note, many of the minor issues found with used E36 models also ring true for the E46 cars, as the engine, chassis, and suspension designs are similar. Here are a few common E46 BMW 323ci, 323i, 325ci, 325i, 328ci, 328i, 330ci, 330i wear items.

    Lower Control Arm Bushings Typical symptoms for torn or cracked lower control arm bushings are front toe changes during cornering, vague or rubbery steering, and vibration felt through the steering when braking from speeds of 60 mph or more. The best fix for this is to upgrade to M3 lower control arm bushings, which do not significantly compromise ride quality while lasting longer and giving better steering feel plus eliminating these symptoms.

    Tie Rods If your E46 BMW is exhibiting steering shimmy (geez- who would have thought BMW's would STILL do this...those of you who have ever owned E24 or E28 cars know what I mean!), clunking during steering input and inability to hold proper alignment, your tie rods are probably worn out. Replace the ball joint boots at the same time for peace of mind. Again- check Ebay for complete inner and outer tie rod assemblies. Cheaper for the whole thing from independent parts sellers than for just one componenet at the dealership!

    Worn out Shocks and StrutsAn E46 BMW 3 series with 40k on it could probably use a fresh set of shocks and struts, and the stock factory BMW dampers are junk by 60k. A lot of people who bought the car new or close to new don't notice the difference since the deterioration is gradual. Worn shocks and struts exhibit symptoms like diving under braking and acceleration, excessive lean, and suspension compression during cornering, and a bouncy and uncomfortable ride. If your shocks are leaking oil externally, there's a major clue. I recommend going with either Bilstein or Koni brand components when replacement times comes. You can do this repair yourself with the aid of a spring compressor tool, which can be rented from most large auto parts stores. Be careful and follow instruction carefully! This is a good time to replace oem springs with something a bit more sporting, especially if your E46 3 series does not have the factory sport suspension package.

    Worn Swaybar Links If the swaybar endlinks are fatigued, handling is comrpomised. A telltale sign is a mettallic click sound. Sloppy handling as a result of this, albeit less than composed feeling, is not inherently dangerous.

    Torn Rear Trailing Arm Bushings aka RTABs Just like the E36, E46 BMW 3 series cars are susceptible to the rear trailing arm, or RTAB, failure. Even worse, since E46 cars are heavier, the RTABs tend to wear faster on the E46. Excessive tire wear and or strangle cornering behavior from the rear end indicates worn bushings, and this can happen within the 45k mark. Don't put off replacing them as neglect could lead to a torn rear subframe and ugly repair bills. There are a number of companies selling limiting shims to be used in conjunction with new stock bushings. This seems to be the most effective repair and guard against further damage.

    Torn Rear Shock Mounts Torn or destroyed rear shock mounts, or RSMs will cause an audible clunk during any sort of suspension movement. Worst case scenario is tearing right through the trunk carpeting into the passenger cabin! Keep your eyes peeled for sloppy handling and rear suspension play that indicates rear shock mount issues.

    Torn Subframe and Subframe Bushings are another item that could lead to subframe failure. Listen for strange clunks and other noises emanating from the bakc of the car. You must catch this in time lest it lead to big repair bills for subframe repair and welding. Now to be fair, subframe and subframe bushing problems most commonly manifest themselves in higher mileage and autocross or tracked cars.

    Torn or Cracked Transmission Mounts If your E46's transmission mounts are cracked, torn, or worn, you could accidentally downshift into the wrong gear and cause an overrev that seriously damages your BMW's engine! Worn transmission mounts allow excess transmission movement. Look for hard shifting, notchy shifty, or forced shifting when cornering, and or muddy shifter feel. This is an inexpensive preventative maintenance repair that will make your car shift better than ever if you do it before it causes a real problem.

    Ripped or Failed Guibo or Flex Disc is something that happens to high mileage or hard-driven BMWs of just about all generations, not just the E46. How do you know when your Guido (also called the flex disc) is shot? Step on the gas, and if aceleration will be preceded with a loud clunk as the guibo bolts bind together, yep you need to replace this item!

    Dirty Automatic Transmission Fluid or Clogged Filter can cause upshift and downshift hesitation as well as hard shifting. Make sure your E46 has been maintained according to the Factory recommendations outlined in the car's owners manual.

    Water Pump Failure caused by bearing or impeller failure disables the cooling system and can destroy your E46's engine. Unlike the E36, this generation does not seem susceptible to the impeller shattering, but all cars water pumps eventually wear out. A good rule of thumb is to replace the water pump every 75k. Shut the car off if the temperature gauge needle ever climbs above the 3/4 mark. This is the only sure way to prevent extensive and expensive engine damage. Unless of course, you want to see what a warped or cracked head looks like!

    Cracked Radiator Necks still happen to 3 series BMW models because BMW still uses plastic radiator tanks. The radiator neck plastic turns brittle and cracks with age. By 100k, your E46 should have had its cooling system inspected and the tank should be replaced.

    Leaky valve cover gaskets cause a burning oil smell that could indicate a leaky valve cover gasket. If the condition continues unchecked, oil can seep into the spark plug holes and damage the ignition coils, resulting in costly replacement. Replacement of this inexpensive gasket is a good idea when changing sparkplugs as the coilpacks will already be out.

    O2 Sensor failure means poor mileage, poor idle and flat spots in the power curve. Even if your car isn't throwing a check engine light, they may not be performing optimally. BMW recommends replacing the O2 sensors every 100k miles. Have you chipped your E46? (rather, 'Sharked' it)? Expect a shorter lifetime for your new oxygen sensor.

    Oil Seperator Failure seems to occur with Non M cars. If you have a poor idle and periodic Check Engine lights, you may have a bad oil seperator. This valve tends to go bad and introduce a vacuum leak which produces the problem.

    E30 3 Series History, Specifications, Performance

    The E30 3 series was a vast improvement over the E21 (sold in the US from 1977-1983)BMW 3 series. Formally unveiled in 1982 for Europe, the E30 line went through many changes during the 1984-1991 years of production for US and Canada. (European market production of the E36 3 series began in 1990.) Today, BMW car enthusiasts mostly cherish the E30 line for its incredible durability, performance and reliability for the dollar, and for it's great build quality that does not get in the way of a more raw and connected driving experience compared to E36, E46, and E90 models.

    In Road & Track magazine's first test of a M10 powereds 318i hit newstands in June 1983. The 318i did not quicken the heart of performance seekers looking for a US market car to replace or join their aging 2002's (Remember, the quick 323i E21 was a grey market car never officially sold in the US). This weas the first published test of an E30" 3 Series. And it was not cheap. The window sticker on R&T's 84 318i was a steepd $18,210 - more than double the price of a 1977 320i. One other aside is that the E30 3 series (the 1984 318i) represented the first time a 3 series was available in the United States with 4 doors.


    The look of the new Baby Bimmer was nothing revolutionary, and even less adventurous to the casual observer than the E21. However '1980s' these 3 series look today, they had considerable aerodynamic advantages vs the outgoing E21. The 1982 Audi 100 has ushered in an 80's focus on reducing coefficient of drag in the pursuit of cleaner styling, better stability, and better fuel economy. The E30's grille sported a less radical angle, and the headlights mounted nearly flush. The E21 and E30 have similar wheelbases, the E30's wheelbase an insignificant 0.3 inches longer from the E21 at 100.9 to 101.2 inches. The car's overall length was slightly reduced. However, the new 3 series felt considerably more 'solid' and well assembled. BMW engineers focused on build quality and dependability to fight off the upcoming Mercedes Benz 190


    The first US spec E30's sported a warmed over 1.8-liter fuel injected four cylinder, the M10 engine with 101 hp. It was quickly determined that us Yanks demanded a six this time, and the Fuel-economy biased M20 121 horsepower 2.7-liter inline six-cylinder 'Baby Six' engine from larger E28 528e sedan was plopped into the new 3 series to create tyhe 325e or 325 eta. An incredibly low 4500 rpm redline and economy-minded gearing accompanied this car, which ran smoothly and torquey, but was no sports car engine (though the 325es is a really neat and fairly rare car!). the "eta" 2.7, like all BMW sixes, was smooth and elegantly torquey in the company's smallest car, but hardly sporting in character. Almost sadly in hindsight, its 121 horsepower were the most available to U.S. buyers of small BMW's since the 1974 2002tii. 325e performance was pretty good for the 1980's, actually, and not all that far off the mark of the Porsche 944 (ouch!),with 0 to 60 mph in 8.4 to 8.9 seconds (depending on who was testing) and a 16.2 to 16.6 second quarter mile time, with trap speed in the low 80 mph range, a 2-3 second improvement in each category over the four cylinder 318i.


    1985 brought the first four door sedan models plus a revised four-speed automatic transmission option available with either the four or the six. 1986 saw the 318i dropped, and ABS Antilock brakes become standard equipment on all North American market 3 series. 1986 was the first year for the 325es as well, which was basically a european market 325is car saddled with the low revving ETA engine. One of these in nice shape today would make a great commuter car/daily driver, especially with a chip and fresh suspension...see my older article on hot-rodding the 325e cars for information on how to make the 325e quite fast!


    The 1987 model year was milestone, for it heralded the introduction of the 325i and 325is models, as well as the 325iC Convertible, the first pure convertible offered in the 3 Series. The impact of the new M20 'i' cars cannot be stressed enough! Car and Driver wrote that "The new 325is is the first genuinely sporting BMW to reach our shores since the 2002tii went out of production in 1975," in their first test of the 325is. The 325i and 325is shared the new-for-us 2.5 liter engine, which though part of the same M20 family as the eta engine and having the same 84mm bore, had a 75mm stroke (down 6mm from the eta) to drop displacement from 2,693 to 2,494 cubic centimeters. The result, with better head, cam, and exhaust, was 168 horsepower and 164 pound-feet of peak torque. Car and Driver's 325is blasted to 60 mph in just 7.4 seconds and completing the quarter-mile in 15.6 seconds at 88 mph. So gratifying and ingratiating was the new 325i engine that most reviewers felt the car was worth its soaring price tag. In the case of Car and Driver's 325is, that tag read $27,475 — which the magazine pointed out is, taking inflation into account, double the price of the old 2002tii. I would take a clean 87-91 325i or 325is over just about any Volkswagen, Corrado VR6 or Golf R32 nonwithstanding.


    BMW's Motorsport division had gotten its start in the early '70s creating high-performance street cars, as well as race cars. By 1987, the reputation of the M (Motorsports) division for building brilliant sporting machinery was well established. The M1 supercar, M535i and M5, plus M635csi and M6 models had reinvigorated the BMW performance legend in larger models, and the 1986 European M3 was their first application of M voodoo to the 3 series.


    The original M3 made it over to the United States 1988. Originally built to take on Mercedes' Cosworth-tweaked 190E 2.3-16 in FIA Group A racing, the M3 employed a 2.3-liter four-cylinder capped with a twin-cam four-valve head that was essentially one of the big six four-valve heads less two cylinders. Dropped into a modified 3 Series two-door body shell (the flared fenders, more steeply raked rear window and higher trunk lid meant only the hood was left untouched from more plebian 3s), the Bosch fuel-injected "M Power" four was rated at 192 horsepower at a wailing 6,750 rpm when it finally got to North America. "This is not a car for yuppies," wrote Car and Driver on their first exposure to the U.S.-spec M3. "This is a car for us. In case you haven't noticed, BMW's U.S. lineup has blossomed to include a dazzling array of leather-lined hot rods that beg to be flogged through the twisties and hammered on the superslabs." Stirring the five-speed manual transmission, Car and Driver blasted that 2,857-pound M3 to 60 mph in just 6.9 seconds, blitzed the quarter-mile in just 15.2 seconds with a 92-mph trap speed and screamed to a 141-mph top speed. With an as-tested price of $34,810, the M3 was at that time (and still in many minds) the ultimate BMW 3 Series.


    BMW would build an all-wheel-drive 325ix model in 1988 as well, and the Motorsport fanatics would conjure up "Evolution" models of the M3 for those who found the wonderful original only a good starting point. But with the introduction of the M3, the possibilities of the E30 3 Series were thoroughly and gloriously exhausted as it faded out of production through 1991.

    E34/E36/E39 M50/S50/M52/S52 BMW Engine Coil Replacement

    In a previous article, I detailed the procedure for replacing the sparkplugs and valove cover gasket on all BMW cars powered by derivates of the M50 engine. An item not mentioned, and probably should have been, are the coils, especially on older or higher mileage cars. With age and heat, the insulation breaks down. As variants of the M50 engine are found in the E36 3 series as well as E34 and E39 5 series, this article applies to any cars with these engines, ranging from the 1991 525i to the 1999 M3.

    Just like the spark plugs can be a source of intermittent hesitation or bogging, so too can the coils themselves. Do a simple search on roadfly.org in the appropriate forum and you will see countless tales of coil woe. In the early days of the E36, coil failure manifested itself so often that there was a push for recall by BMW. Coil problems can manifest themselves as bucking, surging, or general hesitation, often under load or part to full throttle in the 500-3000 rpm range. The dealership will tell you that the coils need to be replaced as a set, but this is not true. Many independent BMW parts retailers (like bimmerparts and bavauto) sell individual coils. Here's one way to test your cars coils if the above symptoms are indeed occurring:

    Replace all the spark plugs, first off. This is eliminating a variable and doing preventative maintenance at the same time. Next, purchase 1 new coil (You might want to check the shop you are buying parts from's policy on returning electrical or ignition components, it does you no good to buy 3 coils if it turns out you only have 1 bad one and you are stuck with 2 extra ones.) and replace the coil on the first cylinder closest to the front of the car. See if this cures it. If not, put it on cylinder #2. Rotate the new coil through all six cylinders. If no single replacement cures the issue, try a second coil and rotate through. This is the least expensive way. You could alway just replace all six at once for peace of mind. Now, old coils are prone to cracking, and a cracked coil can lead to serious electrical problems and can even damage the DME unit (ECU/chip) on your car. A new DME/chip from the dealer is $1000! You can also easily check the health of your coils by checking the resistance between two terminals on the coil. This is outlined in the Chilton's manula and the factory Bentley repair manual. There were two different sources for the coils used by BMW, Bosch and Zundspule. The Zundspule coils were made by a vendor called "May und Christ". These have been the more problematic ones, with peristent tales of misfiring and rough idle.

    E36 BMW 3 Series Wear Items Checklist

    The E36 BMW 3 series began production in late 1990 for the European market, and 1991 for the North American market. This car faced the unenviable task of replacing the admittedly long-in-the-tooth but well loved and highly praised E30 3 series, and specifically the line of 325i, 325is, and 325ix BMWs that had restored the small-sedan performance image to BMW's lineup. The first BMW to feature extensive C.A.D. (computer assisted design), the E36 3 series was a significantly more technologically advanced car than the E30, whose ancestral roots can be traced all the way back to before the BMW 2002 to the BMW 1600! The trailing axle rear suspension was finally replaced with the new BMW Z link rear suspension, a more forgiving design that would also allow for less tricky wet handling. The base 4 cylinder engine was a carryover from the late E30 318i and 318is, the 138 hp M42. The 6 cylinder engine was BMW's fairly new M50 engine, recently introduced in the 525i, and offering 21 more hp and greater torque over the old belt-driven M20 2.5 liter six. The new E36 was a larger car, and weighed approximately 300 lbs more than its E30 predecessor. The E36 series cars are great deal today for used car buyers because the E46 3 series was an evolutionary change sharing many similar chassis design elements, and E36 cars, while getting a bit older, offer a modern driving experience with the refinement/sporting balance tilted a bit more towards sporting and feeling slightly rawer than the E46 cars. However, the E36 series are not without flaws or potential problems. Anyone looking at one should absolutely go through this checklist of wear items when considering purchasing any E36 BMW (which includes the 1992 BMW 325i, 1992 325is, 1992 318i, 1992 318is, 1993 BMW 325i, 1993 325is, 1993 318i, 1993 318is, 1994 BMW 325i, 1994 325is, 1994 318i, 1994 318is, 1995 BMW 325i, 1995 325is, 1995 318i, 1995 318is, 1995 318ti, 1996 328i, 1996 328is, 1996 318i, 1996 318is, 1996 318ti, 1997 328i, 1997 328is, 1997 318ti, 1998 323i, 1998 323is, 1998 328i, 1998 328is, 1998 318ti, 1994 M3, 1995 M3, 1996 M3, 1997 M3, 1998 M3, 1999 M3 and other BMW E36-based models not sold in North America.)

    Many of the wear items in this list should have been replaced or least inspected by 75k-100k miles. Some are model specific, for example the water pump issue is a non factor with cars that metal water pump impellers (ie most 1996 and newer models).

    Lower Control Arm Bushing Failure: Common symptoms for torn or cracked lower control arm bushings are undesired front toe changes during cornering, vague and rubbery feel in the steering, and vibration experienced while braking at freeway speeds. Non-M bushings are commonly replaced with M3 bushings to increase performance with little to no change in comfort.

    Tie Rod Wear: Symtoms include: steering shimmy, clunking during steering input and inability to hold proper alignment. If any of the ball joint boots is cracked (you'll see grease coming out) then expect that component to need replacement. All components should also be checked for excessive play, and replaced if out of BMW spec. I bought complete tie rod inner/outer assemblies on ebay for $70 total vs over $200 at the dealership. You just need one of those wrenches that mount on your ratchet to get at the inner nut. Easy DIY repair that is probably best adressed when you do that ball joints, since the ball joints must be popped out with a pickle fork to do the tie rods anyway!

    Worn or Blown Shocks and Struts:
    Factory BMW shocks work last about 30k. By 60k - 100k they are pretty much completely worn out. Most folks who have been driving their cars since new hardly notice the deterioration as it is gradual. Symptoms of worn shocks and struts include: feeling the cardiving when braking or accelerating, excessive lean and suspension compression during cornering etc. Some folks prefer Koni shocks, I like Bilsteins. This is also a good time to replace your stock springs, though the OEM sport and Mtech sport springs are certainly not bad. Warning: Of all the aftermarket sport springs I've seen, only the OE series H&R springs will work with Bilstein HD (heavy duty) series shocks/struts. For all other springs, which generally lower the car, you will want to go with Bilstein Sport shocks, which offer similar damping but with a shorter shaft and stroke. Stock springs are fine with HD shocks.

    Worn or Failing Swaybar Endlinks: Worn swaybar endlinks can degrade the handling of your E36 BMW. A worn swaybar can sound like a metallic clicking noise. There is no critical danger in a failed swaybar endlink, but the handling of the car is severely compromised. End links are easy to replace.

    Torn Rear Trailing Arm Bushings: (RTABs) If the rear of the car feels strange during cornering or you have excessive rear tire wear, expect that your RTABs , also known as rear trailing arm bushings, are tired. Typical mileage for the E36 is around 40-50k. Don't let this problem go unrepaired, as torn RTABs could lead to a torn rear subframe, which is a nightmare for any E36 or E46 owner. Many aftermarket suppliers have beefier solutions for the factory setup. Having said this, I've only heard of rear subframe failures or tears occurring on cars driven either ridiculously hard on the street, or track cars.

    Torn Rear Shock Mounts (RSM): Torn or destroyed rear shock mounts will produce a very pronounced clunk during any sort of suspension movement, and could possibly just tear right through the trunk carpeting into the passenger cabin. Sloppy and erratic handling and excessive rear suspension play are common symptoms of a rear shock mount, also called RSM, failure.

    Torn Subframe and/or Subframe Bushings: Torn subframe bushings can lead to subframe failure. Common symptoms of subframe failure are erratic handling and unidentified clunks and bangs from the rear of the car. Early detection of a torn or cracked subframe bushing can prevent costly subframe repair and welding. Non-M 3-series cars do not have the subframe reinforcements built in, and even street-driven cars can tear the mounting areas. The M3-specific bushings act as reinforcements and will prevent this problem.

    Torn or Cracked Transmission Mounts: If your E36 has torn transmission mounts, it can lead to the dreaded 'money shift,' which is when you downshft into the wrong gear causing mechanical overrev and the resulting serious damage to your car's engine. Worn transmission mounts allow for an excess amount of transmission movement. Symptoms of torn or cracked transmission mounts can be hard, notchy and forced shifting during cornering, excessive shifter jerk during hard acceleration and braking, and muddy shifter feel. UUC offers stiffer mounts that will make your car shift better and more positively.

    Ripped or Failed Guibo: A torn guibo, also known as the Flex Disc, will result in a perceivable 'drivetrain elasticity.' Acceleration will be preceded with a loud clunk as the guibo bolts bind together. A fairly inexpensive item to replace, the guibo should be one when you are doing the clutch at a bare minimum.

    Dirty Automatic Transmission Fluid or Clogged Filter: E36 cars equipped with automatic trannies can experience shift hesitation or hard shifting as a result of dirty and old automatic transmission fluid or a clogged transmission filter.

    Water Pump Failure: The earlier E36 cars are most prone to this problem due to their plastic water pump impeller, but the bearing on all water pumps eventually wear out, and water pump failure is the quickest way to cause extensive and expensive damage to your BMW's engine. The telltale sign is a rapidly overheating motor. The failure of the bearing or impeller on the stock waterpump allows the cooling system to fail. When the needle on your temperature gauge goes over the 3/4 mark, pull over and shut off the engine right away, because if you don't catch an overheating BMW engine in time, the results can be a warped head or trashed engine.

    Cracked Radiator Neck: The plastic around the radiator necks become brittle and cracks with age, often without warning. Radiators should be thought of as 80-100k mile wear items. A warning sign for a failing E36 radiator neck is the buildup of coolant residue and corrosion. Look for whiteish gunk and dried powdery substance around the neck.

    Cracked and Failed Thermostat Housings: This applies to M50 engine 6 cylinder cars. The factory thermostat housing can eventually crack causing cooling system failure. Replacement with an aluminum housing, or replacing with the new composite units every 60k or so will prevent problems. While you have the housing off, replace the thermostat as well. Preventative maintenance like this means cheap peace of mind.

    Accessory Belt and Tensioner Failure: Worn tensioners and idler pullies will sound like a squealing noise from the engine bay. Belts should be inspected for cracks regularly. If a belt happens to snap, the cooling system will fail as the water pump will cease to operate. Power steering and the alternator will also fail to work. Again, pull over and shut the car off immediately should you suspect a belt failure or see the temperature gauge rise past the 3/4 mark.

    Leaky valve cover gasket: Prevalent on all BMWs, a burning oil smell could indicate a leaky valve cover gasket. If the condition continues unchecked, oil can seep into the spark plug holes and damage the ignition coils, resulting in costly replacement. Replacement of this inexpensive gasket is a good idea when changing sparkplugs as the coilpacks will already be out. Check your spark plugs - if they come out covered in oil, it's definitely high time to replace the valve cover gasket. An article detailing this procedure can be found on this site.

    O2 Sensor Failure Bad oxygen sensors can cause poor gas mileage, poor idle and flat spots in the power curve. They can even fail or hamper performance without throwing a CEL (check engine light). To test using the Bentley manual fault codes, turn the engine on, then off, then turn the ignition switch to run (not start) and press and release the gas pedal 5 times. A series of flashes from the check engine light will result to let you know the problem. BMW recommends replacing the oxygen sensors every 100k miles. If you run your car at high-RPM for extended periods, and or have a high-performance chip, it may cause faster wear of the 02 sensors.

    Clogged and dirty pollen cabin filter: If the flow of air out of the air conditioning and heater system is not as strong as it used to be, it strongly suggests the pollen microfilter of your car has become dirty and clogged over time. A damp and musky smell can also indicate a dirty filter.

    BMW M5 Guide

    The latest BMW M5 is a 500 horsepower V10 monster that willingly revs to an astounding 8,000 rpm in stock from. It's SMG transmission has 7 speeds and 279 modes. The E60 M5 will run you over $90,000 at your local BMW dealership, too. While there are certainly many of those who have pockets deep enough to afford this car, and certainly no shortage of reviews/hyperbole for this Bavarian beast, working stiffs like myself would have to live in a $90,000 car in order to afford it. However, that does not mean that a committed BMW enthusiast CAN'T afford an M5, which through its 4 (well, 5 if you count the E12 M535i, but we will get to that...) iterations has been a sedan that can hang with its more obviously sporting contemporaries at the 'ring or on any street (the Porsche 911 comes to mind). Below is a brief synopsis of the various generations of BMW M5's. Expect more detailed articles on each generation of the M5 in the future, exploring maintenance, parts prices, wear items, reliability, and current market pricing.
  • The E28 M5 debuted in 1984, although it was not officially sold in the US until late 1987 as a 1988 model. First shown at the Automobilsalon in Amsterdam, the first official M5 model was based on the E28 (1981-1988) 5 series platform. The M1's 3.5 liter, DOHC engine with individual throttle bodies and Bosch Motronic ignition was the pounding heart of this car, with 286 hp. Only 2180 E28 M5s were built from 1984-1988, of which 1235 (1988 only) were sold in the states. US-spec M5's had larger impact resistant '5 mph' bumpers, TRX metric wheels, self levelling suspension (frequenctly disabled or removed when the original suspension wears out), were down a good 30 horsepower (256 hp vs 286) due to compression, engine management, and breathing changes (catalytic converter, different headers etc), and were only available in black with tan interior. European market M5's sometimes made their way into the states in the 1980's via 'gray market' sales, and euro spec E28 M5's were available in all colors, have much smaller bumpers, and can have either cloth or leather interior. Like the E28 5 series of midsized sedan upon which it was built, the first M5 model has proven to be quite reliable over the years. The tall greenhouse/cabin of this car and its styling belie its 1970's origins. Compared to later models, it feels more raw and rough. This is the lightest of the M5 models, weighing in around 3100 lbs.
  • The E34 M5 followed. E34 5 Series M5's were hand built by small teams of BMW Motorsport technicians in Germany. Produced from 1988 until 1995, a total of 12,249 6-cylinder E34 M5's were made in three versions; the 3.6 and 3.8 liter Sedans and a Touring (station wagon!) model. 1,465 of these cars , all sedans, were sold in the United States, and 138 in Canada. US models, available from 1991 to 1994, have a 3.6 liter naturally-aspirated inline 6-cylinder engine with 315 bhp and 265 lb/ft of torque, with a redline around 7500 rpm. The S38 engine allows the E34 M5 to reach 60 mph under 6 seconds with a top speed of over 150 mph. The E34 chassis was larger and stiffer, but heavier, than the E28's, and infinitely more modern. The E28 platform was really a warmed-over E12 5 series design that dated back to roughly 1972 in its design origins. The hand-built nature of this car dictated a six week process to finish each one! The S38 was later elarged to 3.8 liters with 340 crank hp, but the US did not get this engine. The fastest BMW of its time, the E34 M car has significant sound deadening, NVH reduction, refinement, braking, and ultimate performance ceiling advantages over its predecessor. The E34 M5 sedan weighs in at 3,700 lbs.
  • The E39 M5 was the first M5 to offer a V8, and not the traditional L6 engine. This M5 was also the first to not be built at the BMW M GmBH factory, but rather at the regular 5 series assembly facility. It offered 400 hp via a six speed manual transmission. Far and away the most popular M5 with nearly 21,000 built. The S62 V-8 engine utilized dual VANOS and individual throttle body butterflies to rev to 7,000 RPM. The transmission is a beefed up version of the one found in the 540i. M tech suspension based on the E39 5 series macpherson strut design and massive floating disc brakes allow the E39 M5 to hang with c5 and C6 corvettes as well as the 996 911 Porsche on the track. During production, it's published 0-60 test times in the 4.6 - 5 second range made it the fastest production 4 door sedan in the world. The E39 M5 is the heaviest and most technology-laden of past M5 models. It is the most refined and visually the least discreet. The S62, by all accounts, is a much more reliable engine compared to BMW V8s, and its extensive use of alloys makes the car much less nose heavy than it has a right to be.
  • My BMW Dream Garage

    Real BMW enthusiasts are interested in more than the latest Chris Bangle Lexus-clone monstrosity. BMW nuts like myself still turn their heads when an E21 323i or E30 318is or clean 2002 or 635csi or e28 M5 etc goes by. The fact is, the company that makes vehicles bearing the roundel has produced many classics over the years that auto enthusiasts would be proud to have in their stable. What if you could have a dream garage of 5 BMW cars? Let's be somewhat realistic here. This means no ex-IMSA racers, no 1991 DTM series ex factory cars, no M1's (sorry, for the $100k+ BMW M1s seems to be selling for, you can get a lot more car with just about ANYTHING else) etc. I know it's difficult to come up with 5, even my list changes just about daily. *Today*, here's my picks:


  • An E30 BMW M3. The king of the boy racers, the winningest race car of the 80s by some counts, the BMW that brought back the raw performance edge to a fairly stody US lineup in 1987, the original M3 with its wild flared bodywork (sharing only the hood with the pedestrian E30 3 series), kidney punishing ride, and screaming S14 2.3 liter engine is one of a kind. BMW never quite recaptured the all-out blitz appeal of this car in subsequent M3's. Though the E36 and E46 M3 models torch the E30 M3 in acceleration, civility, and refinement, the original M3 sedan is an automotive icon whose appeal extends far beyond diehard Bimmer fans. Make mine alpine white with a Turner Motorsports-built 2.5 EVO engine, hot cams, euro evo interior with the harness-ready recaros and Mtech II steering wheel, adjustable splitters and wing, nice light BBS wheels, and a Passport radar detector.
  • An E9 coupe of some sort. Be it a 3.0CS, 3.0 CSi, or 3.0 CSL (ideally), the forerunner to the E24 6 series is in my opinion the pinnacle of Wilhem Hoffmeister's career. The rear window 'kink' - known as the Hoffmeister Kink- became a BMW coupe trademark that defined the C pillar/rear window treatment on coupes right through the E46 3 series. The E9 coupes are just beautiful. I don't need the mighty 'batmobile' CSL to be happy, though I certainly would surely love one. Give me any solid, rust free-one, and I'll build a triplr-Weber carb 3.7 liter-stroker M30 engine with a hot Schrick cam, ported and polished with a 3.73 ltd slip out back and a 5 spd. Maybe some Scheel old-school racing bucket seats. Paint MUST be classic silver with the blue and orange motorsports trim. Maybe an old school Kamei or similar airdam....
  • An E30 325ix. The first all-wheel-drive (AWD) BMW sold in North America, the E30 325ix was available from 1988-1991. The 325iX has a viscous coupling (filled with silicone) in the drivetrain to split torque front to rear and another in the rear differential to provide a limited slip function. Handling in the dry is decent in stock form and far superior to the RWD 3 series on wet or icy/snowy surfaces. With with a few modifications (like cutting the front springs to lower the front 1-1/2 inches or better yet replacing the springs with aftermarket ones, adding a stiffer rear sway bar, installing Bilstein/Koni/similar sport shocks, upgrading bushings and running sticky tires), an iX will run with any E30 in the dry. Equipped with decent snow tires, the E30 BMW 325ix becomes a fearsome winter weapon, ready to go toe to toe with Subaru or Audi cars much newer. The 325ix never really caught on in the US. I'd love a 4 dr 325ix, especially with the red leather interior and sport seats. Make mine silver and give it powdercoated black steelies. Of course, I can't leave well enough alone. Let's take that M20 engine and toss the block. Find me a block from a plain 1988 325, the revised 2.7 M20. Swap that block in under the ix's head/cams/intake/throttle body. Instant cheap stroker. Maybe only 15-20 more hp, but the torque delivery and output is noticeably better. Cheap headers, a good chip, MAF conversion, and intake all help further. The M20 i engine has a pretty hot cam to begin with. Altogher, my dream hot rod 325ix would be a great foul weather machine!
  • A BMW 2002 or 2002tii. This is where the BMW performance sedan reputation begins. The 1968 introduction of the 2002 model, derived from the 1500/1600 design of 1961, was the birth of a true giant killer. I believe that if you are not planning on considerable engine/performance modifications, it makes more sense to just get the cleanest 2002tii you can find. Especially a pre-1974 round taillight model with the smaller bumpers. It's very expensive to tune the Kugelfischer mechanical fuel injection system, and there are not many qualified shops who understand this setup. A well maintained one will make the car run excellently. Tuning it to handle power beyond 145 or so hp is not easy. Plus, why molest a pristine and rare car? If you want to build a monster 2002, starting with a base model of any year -especially the less expensive 1974-1976 models - is the way to go unless you are fixated on the early look. Hot M10 engine with weber carbs, a 288 cam, 5 speed conversion and limited slip from an E21 320is would be quite the screamer. Of course, the near-mythical BMW 2002 Turbo is another story, but good luck finding one!
  • The E39 BMW M5. The E39 BMW M5 was also the first official M car powered by a V8 engine (I say official because the E34 540i with the M sport package and six speed manual transmission was absolutely breathed on by the M divison!). Featuring the new S62 5.0 liter V8 engine, the new M5 was the world's most powerful sedan. With 400 hp at 6600 rpm, and monumental 369 lb-ft. of torque at just 3800 rpm, the M5 delivered stunning thrust virtually throughout its wide rpm range. This 3,700 lb land missile hits 0-60 in the 4.6 second range. An E39 M5 will dance with a C5 vette on the track while seating four in comfort. Ronin's Audi can kiss it's @ss! I don't understand why anyone would buy this car in anything but black or silver. When you've got a sledgehammer of a car (and please spare me the whining from the automatic tranny sissy Mercedes Benz fans with their AMG fixations ;)) like an M5, you don't NEED to be noticed. This would be my ride for long road trips.
  • BMW Radiator/Cooling System Information part 2

    With any older BMW (and I'm talking neu klasse through E34), its important not to let the temp gauge needle reach the 'red' area. This is the point of no return, after this the cooling system is incapable of effectively cooling the engine. The only choice now is to shut off the car's engine. Generally speaking, changing thermostats will not prevent the cooling system from running hotter than normal or from overheating (exception being when the thermostat sticks open in the winter). BMW thermostats have a range of 71° C to 80° C, and their function is to ensure a minimum operating temperature for optimal efficiency and long term engine life.

    Water pumps themselves never fail. A pump will always pump coolant unless there is no coolant in the tank or the V-belt is removed or broken. There are two real world ways in which water pumps do fail. They leak - usually from the small vent hole on the bottom, or the shaft bearing wears out. If your radiator is junk, upgrade your older BMW's radiator to an aluminum one. The price difference is small and the efficiency is much greater. On pre 1980 BMW's with M30 engines (or M20 320/6 or 323i models), use the post 1980 water pump as they are slightly larger.

    Fan clutch failures almost only ever occur with the earliest six cylinder models, such as Bavaria, 3.0 CS, 3.0 CSi, 3.0 CSL, 530i etc. If there is resistance from the clutch when spinning the fan by hand, it's probably in good shape.
    When bleeding the cooling system on M10 BMW's (2002, 2002tii, 320i, 320is, 318i etc), the system is self bleeding. But, you must take care to purge air pockets on six cylinder models any time you open up the system (ie remove the radiator cap).

    BMW Cooling System Information: Troubleshooting and Tips for older BMW Cars

    The single best instrument for testing your older BMW's cooling system (radiator, fans, thermostat, water pump, hoses etc) (E9-E36,roughly) is your BMW's temperature gauge. Learning how to read and understand the temperature gauge is underrated and less common knowledge than you might guess. In southern climates, the cooling system found on older BMW's is marginal on hot, humid rush hour days when the AC is even ineffective. First off, do not open the cooling system unless the temp gauge is showing halfway or less. Avoid potentially serious burns this way.

    BMW Engine coolant: The best coolant for old school bimmers is 100% water. However, water freezes and rusts the engine block. The compromise is to run a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. Not only does the coolant mixture need to be right, but so does the coolant level. All six cylinder BMW cars have coolant/radiator expansion tanks, all but the earliest of which have a 'max' level mark indicator. No mark on your (old!) BMW? Fill it to the tank seam. You can leave the condition of your cooling system to chance and to the warning lights if your car is so equipped, but I say periodic hands on inspection is needed.

    Most (pre M42, ie M10 engine cars) fill directly at the radiator, making coolant level harder to figure out. Coolant MUST be higher than the top of the core and it usually ends up about halfway between the core top and radiator cap. Not sure of the level in your car? Fill the radiator to the cap, take the car for a test drive to bring the system up to operating temp, and the system will bleed itself of enough coolant necessary to create the air pocket for expansion. This gives you max amount of coolant and the space needed for hot coolant expansion.

    Temperature gauge needles usually hover around the midpoint on most BMW's during normal driving. Extreme outside temperature conditions vary needle positions slightly. The hotter and more humid the weather, the less efficient outside air draws heat from the radiator. This increases coolant temp, and makes the needle tick slightly upward. The engine idling for extended period in hot weather (especially with the air conditioning on!) can bring the needle to the 3/4 mark. If it is really hot out, your best bet is to shut off the AC and crank the heater fan on the lowest non AC setting to prevent the engine temperature from going into the 'red' area.

    To be continued: The next segment will tackle Troubleshooting and diagnosis, plus cooling system maintenance tips.

    BMW parts, information, news, modification, repair, and info on BMW 2002,2002tii,2002ti,3.0cs,3.0csi,3.0csl,530i,528e,528i,525i,525it,528xi, 535i,535is,540i,545i,318i,318is,318ti,320i,320is,323i,323is,325i,325e,325is,325ix,325xi,325ic ,325ci ,328i,328is,328ic,328ci,330i,330ci,M3,M3 EVO,M3 Evolution,M3 sport evolution,M5, M6, Z3, Z8, M coupe, M Roadster, 633csi,635csi,euro 635csi,M635csi,735i,740i,750il,740il,745i,E9,E12,E21,E23,E24,E26,E28,E30,E31,E34,E36,E38,E39 ,E46,E52,E53,E60,E65,E66
    BMW cars, parts, bmw information, fixing bmw's, bmw resoruces, links, BMW performance, BMW racing

    <